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Choosing a band saw blade

A band saw that cuts badly usually has the wrong blade on it, not a fault.

Width sets the radius

The back of the blade has to swing inside the kerf, so a wide blade cannot follow a tight curve. Roughly: 6 mm (0.24 in) follows a 20 mm (0.79 in) radius, 10 mm (0.39 in) about 40 mm (1.57 in), 13 mm (0.51 in) about 60 mm (2.36 in). Forcing a wide blade round a tight curve twists it, and it breaks.

Teeth per inch sets the thickness

Keep at least three teeth in the cut. Too few and the blade grabs and wanders; too many and the gullets pack with dust and it burns instead of cutting. Fine pitch for thin stock, coarse for deep resawing — which is why one blade cannot do both.

When bi-metal is worth it

On reclaimed timber and pallets. A carbon blade’s teeth shatter on a hidden nail; a bi-metal blade welds an HSS edge onto a flexible back and survives it. On clean new timber it is unnecessary.

This does not replace your machine’s manual. Guards, riving knives and safe working procedures differ between machines, and the manufacturer’s instructions for yours take precedence over anything written here.

What comes up most often

How do I know the right blade length?

It is fixed by the machine and printed in the manual, usually on a plate on the saw. A blade 20 mm (0.79 in) out will not tension.

Last reviewed 2026-08-12

The gear this assumes

Everything above works with what you already own. These are the products we would reach for, and each links to the full review rather than straight to a shop.

  • Einhell TC-SB 200/1

    Tool-free blade change · ball-bearing guides

    The most consistently priced saw on this page — around €160 to €175 everywhere in Europe — with ball-bearing guides at that money.

    Best for: A first band saw, where the ability to change blades quickly matters more than capacity

    7.5/10

Prices quoted in these summaries are dated readings. The live price is shown next to each product.